Jump to content
NEW ANNOUNCEMENT - Check Featured Topic! ×

Search the Community

Showing results for tags '[Tutorial]'.

More search options

  • Search By Tags

    Type tags separated by commas.
  • Search By Author

Content Type


  • Shinra Headquarters
    • Broadcast Station
    • Feedback & Assistance
    • Media Headlines
  • Discussion Central
    • Anime District
    • Let's Talk Cartoons
    • Manga/Comics
    • Gaming Realm
    • Entertainment
    • Mako Reactor
  • Tantalus Hideout
    • Tech Center
    • Recommendations & Reviews
    • Art and Literature
    • Graphical Division
  • Community Interactive
    • Meet & Greet
    • Balamb Café
    • Forum Games
    • My Two Cents
    • Polls


  • Community Calendar

Find results in...

Find results that contain...

Date Created

  • Start


Last Updated

  • Start


Filter by number of...


  • Start



Website URL








Found 3 results

  1. The purpose of this tutorial is to answer the question "how do I find the delay?" when you want to mux english audio to a subtitled release, but don't know where to begin. What you need: - Audacity (http://audacity.sourceforge.net) with FFmpeg import/export library installed. - MKVToolNix (Link) - Headphones or speakers. To begin you need to open Audacity and load japanese audio first and then english audio. Image 01: In this tutorial I'm syncing audio for the first episode of "A Certain Magical Index". With green color I marked japanese audio track (2 channel AAC file). English audio is marked with yellow, its 6 channel audio but I closed other 5 channels because it looks cleaner and I don't need them. Red rectangle on the bottom is where you write/read selection length. To find the delay we need to look for any sounds that are not speech, because japanese and english speech won't overlap and it will look differently in the waveform display*. If you are not sure about your selected sound then just listen to it by selecting a portion of audio and hit spacebar. Image 02: When you have found your background sound make a selection between its beginning on japanese and english track. Don't worry about precision. In this case its 1035 ms. So I must delete 1035 ms from the beginning of the english track. There are multiple ways to do it, but I select the english audio, hit "Home" to go to 00:00:00, type 1035 ms as the length of the selection and delete it with "Del". Image 03: In this image you can see that I found different sound (it can be the same), zoomed in more and selected the difference one more time. It shows us that I deleted 8 ms too much, so I press CTRL+Z to undo the deletion and remove only 1027ms. Image 04: And this is the result, difference between two sounds less than 1ms. The delay for this english audio track is "-1027ms". FIN. Things that can go wrong: There is a chance that the audio won't sync if you only delete a portion at the beginning. It might require syncing in a few places like: after the OP, before/after the commercials break, before the ED. In such case there is no other choice than syncing it in audacity (or other app) and exporting. To make sure that your audio is synced you should simply check the ending in audacity. *The most common visual representation of audio is its waveform display, which is a graph of amplitude (loudness) over time.
  2. Tutorial: Loki Signature This thread will outline the method I used to create the Loki signature I'm currently sporting. I'm using Photoshop CS5 on Windows 7. There are probably differences between versions of Photoshop and/or between operating systems. I just don't know what those might be. General Setup: The process behind this signature was a little different that what I normally do. Usually, I find a render and make/find an appropriate background. When working with renders of real, live people, it's hard to make or find a background that matches well enough. For this signature, I took a screencap from an Avengers trailer and used that as my base. Here's the image, if anyone would like to follow along. Step 1: Open your image. Crop the image to an appropriate signature size; my standard is 500px x 150px. Note: I always name my layers so I know what I'm working on. I strongly recommend this; it makes it easier to keep track of everything. Step 2: Add a new Group . I make one group at the top of the layer stack, and put all of my Adjustment layers in it. This way I can easily turn it off and see what the original image looked like, and whether my adjustments made an improvement, or made it worse. Step 3: Add Adjustment layers , starting with a Gradient Map. This gives the image the overall color scheme. The one I chose can be found by clicking the gradient drop down box, and there's a little arrow to the right of the drop down menu (marked in red). From the next menu, choose Metals. I want a greenish signature because I know the character wears a green costume. Double-click on the gradient drop down box and a new window, called Gradient Editor, should pop up. To change the color of the signature, I'm going to change the dark blue (marked in red, below) to dark green, and the light blue (marked in yellow, below) to light green. Double-click the boxes and a color picker will open. For the dark green I used #0d4e0b, and for the light green I used #e9f5e9. I set the Blend mode to Hue, and the Opacity to 70%. The image will now have a green gradient to it. Note: Blend mode and Opacity are things that can be experimented with. I usually cycle through all the options before choosing the one I like the most. Step 4: Add a Brightness/Contrast Adjustment layer. The image is very dark, so I set the brightness to 90. I also wanted to give the image a little more contrast, so I set the contrast to 20. Step 5: Add a Color Balance Adjustment layer. I don't really have a method for using this; I just slide the bars left and right, and see what looks best. In this case, I used Cyan/Red +4, Magenta/Green -18, and Yellow/Blue -21. Step 6: Add a Vibrance Adjustment layer. Once again, there's no real method to this. I slide the bar up or down and see what works. In this case, I used Vibrance +50. Step 7: Add a texture above the background layer. I used this texture. Again, I cycled through the blending options, and chose Color Dodge, Opacity 40%. Note: The texture lightened up the image quite a bit. Some of the adjustment layers may need to be readjusted to counteract this. I don't know why I didn't screencap this step, whoops. But you can see the effect of the texture in the step 8 picture. Step 8: Add a Gradient Fill layer, but DON'T put it in the Group; put it right above the background layer. A menu will pop up; the settings I used were the transparent to black Gradient, Style: Reflected, Angle: 0, Scale: 105%, and Reverse is checked. This serves to black out the sides of the signature a little, bringing the focus to the character. Step 9: Add text. The text I used was “You were made to be ruled,” a line spoken one of the movie trailers. I made two text layers, one plain (“You were made to be”), and one a little fancier (“ruled”). For the plain text, I used Times New Roman 15pt, and for the fancy text, I used The King & Queen Font 23pt; the color of both was white. The blending settings for the both text layers used the Outer Glow effect. Right-click on the layer, and select Blending Options. Click Outer Glow to bring up the menu. These are the settings I used for the plain text layer: Blend Mode: Screen Opacity: 45% Noise: 0% Color: #b95bfb Technique: Softer Spread: 13% Size: 4px Range: 70% Jitter: 0% And this is how the fancy text layer differs: Opacity: 100% Size: 13% Range: 50% For the plain text layer, change the opacity to 60%, and the fill to 0%. For the fancy text layer, the opacity is 50%, and the fill is 0%. Step 10: Add a border. Create a new layer above the text layers. Press Ctrl+A to select the whole image. Select Edit, then Stroke from the top menu. In the new window, select the width and color. I chose 1px and black. Click OK. And voila! This was a more complicated signature, and it was even difficult for me to recreate it. I'm not sure if this is the exact order I did things, but I think it's close. If there's something that doesn't make sense, let me know, and I'll edit this post.
  3. Tutorial: Text as requested by ba11ard This thread will show the different styles of text I use, and explain why I use them. I guess this could be considered more of an analysis than an actual tutorial. Style #1: "Label" A lot of times, the text I use is simply my username; this helps users quickly identify that this signature is mine, and prevents others from stealing. This is helpful in competitions, such as the SOTW contests. In the above case, the font is small, but still easily readable. Default fonts work well for this purpose; most fancy fonts get more difficult to decipher as they get smaller. Also, the opacity is turned down and blending options (such as multiply/screen/overlay) are used, to blend it into the background more. The text should be readable, but not over-powering, as to take away from the focus of the render. I FORGOT TO MENTION. The text should be near the render, but not on top of it (in most cases; sometimes it's unavoidable). This gives the signature a focal point. If the text was on one side and the render on another, the eye wouldn't know where to focus. Here are more examples of this type of text: For this one, I put the text layer underneath the bokeh texture to blend it. I don't normally set text on an angle like this (personal preference), but I thought it fit the signature, because there are so many definite lines of motion. More text styles coming soon!
  • Create New...